Céline and Sébastien LeSeurre murmur with excitement as a car makes its way up the driveway of their winery on the east side of Keuka Lake. It’s a grape grower from a nearby vineyard bringing three bunches of grapes — Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Gewürtztraminer — for them to evaluate. The LeSeurres inspect the bunches and taste the grapes. They spit out the seeds and examine them in search of a brown one.
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